Sunday, 25 January 2015

Saturday, 24 January, 2015 - Flying, flying, flying...... to Los Angeles, USA

Today will be spent transiting from one American continent to the other.
Our day began with a 4.30am alarm in order to be ready for a 6am pick-up.  Princess had paid for everyone’s airport transfers, for which we were grateful.  Because it was so early Saturday morning, the drive only took 35 minutes!  Managed to line up at American Airlines with no queue!  Flight to Miami – 5h53mins. 

Miami immigration was as per usual – very busy and we had to line up for everything.  We landed at 3.30pm, took 2hrs to navigate customs and immigration.  Managed our interchanges successfully and found our gate.  Had 30 minutes to grab something to eat.  The plane was late landing so we had some extra time!


Flight to Los Angeles - 6hrs -  left 30 minutes late at 6pm because they were still loading luggage.  Our pilot made the time up during the flight so that we landed in LA on time!  We all found it a long, tiring, sore flight and we glad to get off at 8.30pm (we made 3 hrs on the time difference – yay!).  Checked in to our favourite hotel, the Courtyard Marriott LAX…..

Friday, 23 January, 2015 - a day in Lima, Peru!


Brekky was great – buffet and a chef who cooked omelettes to order…. And waffles!  We found our own pequena-sized chimu figurines in the coffee shop of the hotel!  After some negotiations with the concierge staff, we were able to organise to take the hotel taxis to the JW Marriott.  It’s a lovely, big hotel – our Executive room on the 5th floor had a full glass frontage of the beach and bay.   We walked along the shore like to the Parque de Amor and the Lighthouse.  Very picturesque.  Across the road from the Marriott is a 3 storey shopping centre with a Tony Roma’s restaurant where we had lunch.  Shopping not great in there.  Spent a short time in the afternoon re-packing our bags and headed out to the Executive Lounge for wine and food.  The most massive buffet and David was especially impressed with the selection of chocolate desserts!
The coastline in the bay at Miraflores


The statue of the lovers in the park



Looking back toward our hotel

The shopping complex built into the cliffs.

Thursday, 22 January, 2015 - Cuzo to Lima, Peru

The group left the hotel in Cuzco and we were driven to the airport.  It’s a small airport with only 5 gates and a few shops.  The flight attendant remembered us when we boarded the aircraft!  Landed in Lima and immediately boarded the buses.  This time our group of 71 had to fit on 2 buses – so the two Davids were very sprightly and moved up toward the front of the group, ensuring that we were sitting in the second rows – easier for getting on an off the bus!

We were introduced to another guide from Lima Tours – Sonia – who was a ‘Limarian’ – born and bred in Lima.  The airport is actually in the district of Callao and we had to drive about 45minutes into Lima city.  It’s a hot and dry area, only receiving about 1 inch of rain per year!  So most of the population don’t own umbrellas and they don’t close their upper windows.  The city is growing exponentially, with people moving away from the central (farming) areas to the city to increase their lifestyles (wealth).  The traffic is crazy, 3 or 4 lanes in each direction.

Our first stop was lunch at Museo Larco – a beautiful restaurant area and museum of pre-Incan cultures.  It was our farewell lunch from Lima Tours, excellent food served warm in large clay pots – a type of stir fried beef, lamb, chicken in coconut sauce, rice, vegetables and salad.  Delicious!  Best of all was the pisco sour and free-flowing wine which accompanied the meal!

Entry into Museo Larco

Chimu clay figurines

 A trip to the bathrooms (banos) turned out to be very interesting with the chimu clay figurines adorning the doors.  The Chimu were a pre-Incan tribe.  Their little boy and girl pottery figures are very cute but you have to look very carefully to tell which is which. (this photo is of the large set - on the toilet doors were the penquenos (small) set)  It took me a while to work it out… and everybody’s trips to the bathrooms ended in some laughter.

Next, Sonia took us through some neighbourhoods on the way into the Plaza de Armas.  It is a large square, with the Presidential Palace on one side, the Catholic Church on another, Government buildings on another and the shops on the other.  A group of policia with riot gear on standby were clearly visible.  Sonia said it was ok to ask to have a photo with them – so we did.

Plaza de Armas - Presidential Palace in background

Mustard coloured Government building

Being watched by the riot policia


 Sonia then walked us down a  street and stopped at a big, wooden door.  We went in and found  it was like a garage with a  car parked, then went up some stairs to an open verandah and entered into an old house.  The house was owned by a Count and had been in his family’s possession for 17 generations!  It was built over an old Incan palace.  Apparently underneath the house, were tunnels to the Presidential palace but they had since been sealed.  Beautiful home with some very valuable antiques.

It was then another hour in the bus to get to our hotel in Miraflores.  By this time it was 6pm and the traffic was at gridlock in some parts, even with the policia controlling the traffic flow.  Miraflores is a distinctly up-market district, where the business and banking hubs are and middle-upper class residents.  It’s also where the tourists tend to stay and is very safe due to its high police presence.

The historical house we visited.

 Our hotel was very comfortable.  After checking in at 7pm, we walked down the street and found a pizza restaurant with a 2-for-1 deal on pisco sours and pizzas… the waiter spoke very little English but we managed.  Food was great!  Also found a supermarket on the way back to stock up on supplies and wine for the evening.

Friday, 23 January 2015

Wednesday, 21 January - Machupicchu to Cuzco!

The guides offered us five options for Wednesday morning due to the rainy weather.  We opted to take the walk to the Gate House and Inka Bridge.  We had to be ready to leave by 5.30am so that meant up at 4.30am in order to have some breakfast before a hike!

Kerren and David had a room at the front of the hotel and said that they had seen young people leaving from as early as 3am to walk up the mountain!  Crazy?  It again was raining, not heavily, but it was wet.  About 30 of us left the hotel on foot for the bus station.  I was amazed at how many people were already lining up to get on the buses.  There was a large queue to get in at Machupicchu, again, we were all standing in the rain.  Fortunately, we had seen good quality rain ponchos in a store in Cuzco for $US5 and they worked a treat!
View of the entrance and bus station

 We had 10 people in our little group and we were so lucky to have Oscar taking this activity.  For such a young man, he was so knowledgeable and our hike was safe and interesting!  There were many stairs and he kept stopping for us to rest, checking that we were managing in the wet conditions.  The Gate House at the top gave a great view and the rain had slowed to drops, we were able to take photos with some openings in the clouds.

The hike to Inka Bridge was along the mountainside.  We don’t know how the Inkas built it, as there is a sheer drop straight down.  Perhaps it was fortunate we had rain, we couldn’t see the bottom or very far down because it was all filled in with cloud!  The hike concluded where the trail goes across a sheer granite cliff face.  The Inkas had used ropes to tie three huge timber posts together in a part where there was nothing below – a defense mechanism in case of invasion, where they would simply set fire to the timber if being followed by an enemy, eg the Spanish.

The Gate House - in cloud!

On the walk to the Inka Bridge

Sheer cliff face 

Inka Bridge

End of the trail - Inka Bridge in background



We walked back from there and the sky cleared some more.  It had stopped raining and the sky had brightened.  We ran into some Americans we had met on the ship as we passed the Gate House.  Walking down requires care and is just as much an effort as walking up!

No queue to get back on the bus at 8.50am!  Our rain ponchos had dried out thankfully.  The bus driver dropped us at the entrance to our hotel, so in 30 minutes we were back in our room, having warm showers.  David walked to the shop where we had bought Cusquena 600mL beer for 8 Sol yesterday to return the bottle (as requested by the young man behind the counter) and was surprised to receive 2 Sol back!  Recycling at its best!  He said he would have given it to the teenager if he had been there, but it looked like Dad or an Uncle who was running the store, so he didn’t.

Departure time was 10.30 at the train station.  Bought a couple of small items at the market, you have to get used to bartering and not taking their first price…. I find this difficult!  The train this time was a locomotive with engines under the carriage and left on time at 10.55am.  The staff served coffee and a small salad roll and having had such an early start, we all settled back to relax. 

The driver announced that we would be stopping for about 10 minutes in a village and waiting for another train to pass.  All we could see was bush and the river and we were wondering where the ‘village’ was?  Outside, there was a very old woman dressed in traditional clothing, bent over with arthritis, who appeared with a huge bunch of flowers.  She was waving at us and she came over to the train – we were all waving at her and some people threw money out of the windows for her!  Suddenly, over the loud speakers some music began and a dressed up ‘creature’ began dancing up and down the aisle!  I’ve never seen this on a train before!  They told us he was from the village, a cross between traditional and Christian beliefs and bestowing good luck on us in our travels!  Next, they announced that courtesy of Perurail and SoL clothing, we were now going to see a Fashion Show of their best designs in baby alpaca clothing!  The two staff who’d ushered us onto the train and served our snacks, were now wandering up and down the aisles to music, in a variety of ponchos, jackets, jumpers and scarves!  It was so much fun!

Our friendly Señora


Our friendly visitor

One of the many outfits in the fashion parade

 At about 12.30 we arrived back at Ollantaytambo station and picked up by our drivers.  Kerren had made friends with some local fellow who called himself ‘Kevin Costner’ and he was selling jewellery….. so she introduced him to me… and then he followed us wanting us to buy some of his stuff!  We managed to get away from him – but he was there again when we arrived in Cuzco at our hotel and again the next morning when we left!

Lunch was at a flower nursery at Urubamba – beautiful quinoa soup and 2-for-1 pisco sours!  Kerren bought some baby alpaca wool to knit into scarves.  We arrived in Cuzco at about 3.30pm and our hotel was in the centre of the city near the church.  Oscar gave us a tour of Qorikancha it had been an Inka temple, said to have had pure gold on the top of the boundary fence and gold intertwined in the straw of the thatched roofs, that when the Spanish first saw it, they described it as ‘glistening’ in the sunlight!  So when they invaded, it was promptly plundered.  Oscar said that it had stood there for 300 years and within 3 months it was in ruins, replaced by a Spanish Catholic cathedral (below).



We had a quick walk into the main street of Cuzco.  Female police officers on point duty at traffic lights blowing their whistles!  Changed money at the cambio - $1US = 2.99 Sol.  Dinner in the hotel was fabulous!

Thursday, 22 January 2015

Tuesday, 20 January, 2015 - Ollantaytambo - Machupicchu!

This morning, our guide, Oscar, was extremely well organized and our bus left first.  We were first to arrive at the Ollantaytambo train station and first onto the platform.  I told the young man I was impressed!  Allocated seating on the train made boarding easy.  We were only allowed overnight bags which we stowed near the door.  The train is designed like the gold-leaf train in Canada, with the glass ceiling so you can see the mountains above.  The train trip to Agua Calientes (Machupicchu) took 1.5hrs.  We passed a lot of farming and jungle scenery as the train followed the path of the Urubamba River.  We also saw the beginning of walking trail into MP, which takes 4 days and 3 nights and you can hire a Sherpa to carry your pack for you.




On arrival we were taken straight to the bus station for the 25minute drive to the ‘Ciudad Inka de Machupicchu’ – the Inka City of Machupicchu.  In December, 1983, UNESCO declared this area a ‘Cultural and Natural Patrimony of Humankind’, making it Peru’s first Achaeological Monument.  Along with Saqsaywaman, it is a highlight of the imperial Incan culture and serves as an excellent example of the Incans’ architectural genius.

Location: 72.5miles NW of Cusco. 13°south latitude and 72°west longitude. 
Altitude:  The Sacred Plaza sits 2453 metres above sea level.
Ecological level:  Semi-tropical land “eyebrow of the jungle” highland jungle.
Climate:  There are two marked seasons – dry (April through October) and rainy (November through March). 
Temperature:  Relatively stable, with annual lows of 6°and highs ranging from 21°C.
Geology:  Machupicchu is a part of the Vilcabamba Batolite formation, a mass of igneous rock 250 million years old.  The most common stone found in the region is a greyish-white granite, a type of rock which contains high quantities of quartz, mica and feldspar, making it relatively easy to shape.  The rock was therefore a magnificent building material for the Andean masons.

In the early 1900s, Hiram Bingham, a North American professor, came to South America to research the military campaigns of Simon Bolivar.  He met some farmers during these travels who told him about some ‘old ruins’ at the top of the Old Mountain.  The local farmers called the mountain, Machupicchu (which means old mountain).  Bingham referred to the site as ‘the Lost City of the Inkas’.  In 1912, he organized a new expedition with specialists in osteology, natural sciences, excavations and surveying to clear the site and conduct archaeological research.  Later on, the Peruvian government assumed the conservation of Machupicchu through the Regional Management of Culture – Cusco, which is the official entity in charge of the conservation of this Peruvian Cultural Patrimony.

Oscar took our group for a 2hr tour around the lower section.  He was extremely knowledgeable about the structures, their composition, how the Incas lived, re-creating a picture for us about what the ruins may have looked like and the scientific reasons for his beliefs.  We enjoyed the tour with no rain!  

Agua Calientes - Machupicchu pueblo (village)







Lunch was at 2pm and we went for a buffet lunch at the restaurant.  15 minutes later it bucketed down!  We had hoped to go back into the ruins to see more but the rain was just too heavy.  We boarded the return bus and found our way to the hotel – Sumaq – which was a beautiful hotel overlooking the Urumbamba River.  David and I spent the afternoon wandering the streets, taking photos and shopping.  The most interesting experience was going into a restaurant which also advertised itself as a ‘cambio’ (money exchange) and we gave the Senor $US40 which he took inside.  We could see him at the bar of the restaurant but then he ran out of the door!  Hoping we hadn’t been ‘scammed’ we had no option but to wait.  He returned a few minutes later with 84 Nueve Sol (Peruvian money), I tipped him 2 Sol and he seemed to be happy with that.

One statue which we photographed was Pachakutec (the Incan King) with the representatives of the three worlds (their beliefs) – a Condor from the upper world, Puma from the middle world and Serpent from the underworld.  Interesting stuff!




We were invited by the hotel staff to attend a Pisco Sour making demonstration at 6.30pm, Ceviche making also then dinner at 7.30pm.  We enjoyed a fabulous evening with wonderful food!  Then it was bed for us because we had elected to leave at 5.30am the following morning to go back up the mountain and see more of Machupicchu!