Tuesday, 19 January - Urubamba, Peru!

We boarded our minibus at 9am and headed out for today’s exploration! 

We drove through the countryside, passing many green farms and our guide pointing out the various crops – potatoes, barley, turnips, corn and eucalyptus trees from Australia.  They were imported for their quick growing timber, good burning ability and use in construction.  The leaves are also used in medicine.

Many farm animals to be seen along our journey – some in paddocks, some tethered in yards or on the footpath; or some being watched over by mothers, children or shepherds.  Our guide was explaining that the average monthly income for these people is about $US150 per month.  They are fairly self sufficient and don’t need a lot of money – impressive!  But the majority will spend their monthly income on mainly these four items:  salt, sugar, cocoa leaves and batteries.  The farmers and their families can be seen working with a radio in the crook of their neck, playing music which makes them happy and also for the news bulletins.

About an hour later, our first stop was Chinchero, known as the ‘Rainbow Land’ because the townspeople reckon they always see 2-3 rainbows every time it rains.  Very lucky!  Population would be about 5000 people.  First thing I noticed was the traditional clothing of the people, especially the women.  The colours represent their different tribal origins.  Lots of farm animals tethered in front yards and the houses built home-made mud bricks.

Dining room at our hotel

 We were taken to a building in a narrow street which from the front, looked like just another house.  On entering the front gates, we found a courtyard with a clay stove/oven, textiles, pots containing some boiling liquids, a guinea pig hutch, a cat, a dog and some ladies traditionally dressed, some with bambinos.  Over the next half an hour, we were amazed as we listened to the ladies explain how they made fabrics from baby and adult alpaca wool and sheep wool.  They use native tree roots to wash the wool in a bowl, by hand – no chemicals.  They use a variety of plants for dyes.  David was most interested in how they used a parasite found on prickly pear to make cochineal – a red colour.  The lady picked the prickles from a small section, then from under the surface of the leaf she collected the parasites, little white, powdery (furry) things.  She crushed them between her fingers and rubbed the remnants over the palm of her hand.  Then, she added salt and it went orange, sulphur to make it black……  so interesting!  We had an opportunity to shop before leaving – it was a fun time!  All stages of the weaving process are done by hand – some of the bigger blankets can take 6-7 months to finish!

Beautiful Señoras!

Showing us their weaving

The stove with the guinea pig hutch underneath

Our guide pointed out that on the top of most house roofs is a small statue facing west – usually two bulls and a cross.  This stems back to the time of the Spanish Inquisition, when the Incas had to show their conversion to Catholicism or risk death.  Today, the tradition continues with the families usually praying for Good Luck, health and happiness for the people who live there.

About an hour later, we drove through the small pueblo (village) of Maras then on to Moray where there is a huge circular terraced depression, probably natural, which the Incas used to grow crops hundreds of years ago.

A late lunch was had at Pacha Mancka, at a place called Wayra.  They had prepared a meal of various meats and vegetables cooked in leaves in a pit of coals (kind of like a Hungi in New Zealand, I think)….  One of the delicacies offered was guinea pig.  I found the whole meal very dry and pretty cold so I can’t say I was impressed either way.  David thought it tasted like a cross between a rabbit and a duck.  Kerren and I tried ‘Pisco Sour’ cocktails and found that we liked them very much!  The next treat was a short horse show, with four traditionally dressed horses and their riders who danced the ‘Marie Nera’.

Pisco Sours!

Horsemanship

Unique art in the foyer....

Finally we went to Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley to another very old Inca settlement.  It was built at the junction of three pathways through the valley.  Very steep surrounding hills meant that the terraces were steep and high – we got about half way…. Great view!

Tomorrow we are leaving for Macchu Picchu!